Doug Wilder’s The Wilder Side of California, Issue 118 – August 24, 2007
August 24, 2007
Spencer Roloson - Northern California Rhones
Doug Wilder’s The Wilder Side of California, Issue 118 | August 24, 2007 |One of the brightest stars in California Rhone varietals from Northern California is Spencer Roloson. Far from being just an excellent winemaker, proprietor Sam Spencer has gone further and developed his own vineyard sites in Napa and Lake Counties. I met Sam in the early 1990s when he was running the ground-breaking Hayes and Vine wine bar shortly after the urban re-vitalization in Hayes Valley following the 1989 San Francisco earthquake. On my frequent visits to the wine bar he shared with me his plans to head to Spain and learn how to make wines in the old world. I admired his ambition to jump into the business of making Tempranillo (pretty obscure domestically at the time) and our paths didn't cross again for another 10 years when I tasted the first of his releases in 2000. I was instantly impressed with the wines and recall they were compelling in their quality and value. Spencer helped pioneer the grape production in the virtually unknown Lake County. Madder Lake Vineyard typifies his intrigue with what he calls "extreme sites": a steeply sloped bowl comprised of volcanic rock. Their other vineyard was introduced to Vinfolio clients in early 2006 with the 2003 vintage, La Herradura Vineyard. In Issue 41 of The Wilder Side of California, March 3, 2006, I mentioned the 2004 barrel lot I tasted at Premiere Napa Valley the previous month which was superb and encouraged readers to take advantage of the current release.
Sam and his partner Wendy Roloson farm their Tempranillo and Syrah off of Madder Lake Vineyard, along with a Zinfandel (sold out) and designate their flagship Syrah from La Herradura Vineyard. Viognier comes from the Noble Vineyard in Knights Valley while Grenache Blanc is sourced from the Esperanza Vineyard in Clarksburg, Sacramento Delta. Grenache Noir comes from Clear Lake and Palaterra red blend wears a California designation, yet is mainly sourced from vineyards in Napa Valley.
White Rhone Varietals
The sublimely magnificent 2006 Grenache Blanc (VF 94) began as an accident since the vines these grapes were sourced from were originally thought to be Grenache Noir when planted. The sandy, well drained Esperanza Vineyard is bordered on two sides by the Sacramento and American Rivers which channel cooling marine influenced breezes through the otherwise arid region after sunset. Grenache Blanc originated in Spain, then migrated to France's Rhone Valley and Chateuneuf-du-Pape. Its origins in the United States can predominantly be attributed to Perrin's importing it in 1992 for their Tablas Creek brand. The variety only received BATF approval to appear on labels in 2003. Viognier only preceded Grenache Blanc by a few years being produced in any commercial quantity domestically. Its appearance in Eastern Sonoma County seems surprising as it comes from the single source, Noble Vineyard. The eastern-facing, steeply terraced vines benefit from the shallow morning light and are shielded from most of the hot afternoon's direct exposure. The 2005 Viognier, (VF 92) serves as a reminder of how a purposefully planted varietal can be coaxed into excellence in a radical site.
Red Rhone Varietals and blends
The red portfolio for the winery is fairly robust and diversified, beginning with 2004 Palaterra (VF 91), blended from 32% Syrah, 35% Carignane and 33% Valdiguie. The latter two varietals are sourced from vines exceeding 50 years in age. The wine is harmoniously formed for early drinking. 2006 Tempranillo (VF 93) from the Madder Lake Vineyard to Ribera del Duero clone is another example of Spencer's foresight to be the first to develop this varietal in the region. The pair of designated Syrah - 2004 Madder Lake Vineyard, (VF 90) and 2004 La Herradura Vineyard (VF 96) - illustrate the differences in the terroir of the two sites.
This is what Syrah begs for. Planted to Co...-20
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